Auto Block On Double Rope Rappel

Designed for use as an auto block knot prusik on single or double ropes to protect you on rappel or aid in ascending the rope in emergency.

Auto block on double rope rappel.

Auto block resistance belaying a second high friction in auto block mode plagued all the devices capable of double rope rappels especially the smart alpine. One of the most common mistakes is the failure to capture both strands of a double rope rappel in the rappel device. How to use an auto block to backup your rappel. Use the lower hand to feed the rope up through the belay device while the top hand moves the auto block down the rope so it doesn t tighten.

For those just starting with any type of rock climbing including rappelling remember the following basics. At the bottom or the next anchor call off rappel to your belayer. Auto block tubular belay devices have an additional metal loop on the side. The autoblock knot an easy to tie friction knot or hitch that is tied around a climbing rope with a thin length of cord is used as a safety back up knot when you re rappelling.

The knot is the best back up simply because it does two jobs exceedingly well. Set it up correctly. A 5 5mm sewn rope sling made with technora aramid core and nylon sheath. An auto block is a rappel backup or a third hand meaning if you get knocked unconscious or lose control of the rope it will tighten up and keep you from plummeting downward.

It locks under load and unlike all other friction knots it releases while still under load. Obsession climbing 20 250 views. Setting up rappel device for double rope rappel duration. It is unique in that it is a fully certified 22kn sling that can be used anywhere a normal sling is used.

French prusik knot auto block rappel backup duration. It needs to be short enough so it can t get caught in the belay device which would render it useless. Wyatt hansen 15 201 views. Basics to keep in mind.

Top belaying with the device is called guide or reverso mode and offers an auto blocking advantage on the rope if the climber were to fall. The loop is used when setting up the belay device at an anchor so that the belayer can top belay a second.